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Hard, almost crunchy "cigarettes" complete with edible paper were good; the chewy and minimally sweetened tube from a sherbert dip was OK: but for true adult enjoyment of liquorice you need that dash of ammonia! Or so I thought.

The one brand of salmiakpastiller Farmor used to send over in food parcels has, as far as I can tell, disappeared along with those naughty mock cigarettes: the consolation prize of visiting Maastricht (apart from its rather handsome station) was the discovery of Läkerol salmiaks.

But then … a visit to an untried kitchen-equipment shop, seeking nothing more exotic than a heat-diffuser, netted me dark Belgian chocolate with a hint of liquorice as fresh and woody as the root. Wow.